Thursday 22 August 2013

Where it all started?

Good flippen question.

Well read on to find out or skip to the actual trip part if you not much for beginnings and such. This will only work once I actually have the trip part uploaded. Till then you are stuck with this part, or you can close this tab and get back to downloading your porn or series or whatever whilst trying to look busy at work till my next post.

The idea to cycle around the perimeter of South Africa came to me while I was still at university in second year, in 2005. There was no ‘Ahh’ moment with the room lighting up and me standing up saying, ‘Well Job, I’m gonna do it!’ As close as I can recall, it was in second term while I was working on my short animated film for the term, in front of the computer whilst staying in a flat in Rhondebosch.(I think you recalled that quite well Clinton) Now as with all random thoughts and ideas, I can’t recall exactly what inspired it, but it may have been Riaan Manser’s trip around Africa I had just recently and very vaguely heard about. And I thought, well, why not just cycle around my own country? Its big enough in its own way to present some form of a challenge and adventure. And that’s how the idea was formed, I think? And it was always something that I knew I could actually do. It wasn’t that crazy that I couldn’t pull it off. I mean it’s just riding a bike around the country, that’s all. How hard can that be, right? Immediately after that I didn’t actually do any research into the idea, so I just let it sit for a while (8 years !?!?), I guess waiting for the right time to do it. But always in the back of my mind the idea was there. Plus I had always put it on my CV as some sort of future goal, which kept on reminding me of this thing I had to do. (Yay, now I can edit my CV and say I actually did it!)

So I finished university, got a job doing post production for a children’s animated television show a few months later. Finished that contract and decided with a friend to rather go teach English in South Korea for a year as I wasn’t in the mood to sit in front of a computer screen for a while. Did my year in South Korea where I got a bicycle fairly soon which I rode to work pretty much every day. Came home for 5 months, and then went back again, this time to a different school in a different province. Again I was happy to find out I had a bike waiting for me, which I used quite a bit. Was fun riding into town past the rice fields when it was all misty at night to play poker with the other expat teachers. It kind of reminded me of the perfect setting to see the dog from Hound of the Baskerville running somewhere out in the rice fields shrouded in all that mist with only its glowing eyes staring back at me. I was also thinking a little more and more about this trip around my country during my second year in South Korea, but again I did no research into it. I then returned to South Africa and got my old job on season three of the television show I had worked on before I went to South Korea. Was a strange coincidence but I was happy to be employed. Just before I started work again, I had bought myself a copy of Riaan Manser’s ‘Around Africa on my bicycle’. I devoured that book and I recommend it to anyone who enjoys a good adventure read. Truly an inspirational and epic journey he did. I was now beginning to feel charged up for my own adventure. I also read Rob Lilwall’s ‘Cycling home from Siberia’ and Mark Beaumont’s ‘The man who cycled the Americas’. Both amazing books to read. Thinking about it now, all three books just mentioned pretty much cover all the continents of the world except the Arctic and Antarctic, cause who the hell would be mad enough to cycle those places?! (‘You Clinton! You can be mad enough!’) I knew after reading these epic adventures that just riding around my own country was not only doable but would also be filled with loads of awesome experiences. Plus I had lots of important information I could use based on their experiences to help me prepare for my trip.

Read em!!!
I had now decided I was going to do this trip after my contract ended in December 2012, although I did not have a specific date in mind just yet, though that would work itself out later. 

So what is the first thing one needs for a bicycle ride around the country? A bike. So that’s what I got in March last year. I got myself a Giant Talon 29. A fairly decent entry to medium level mountain bike which would hold up for plenty of road work on my trip. It was also my main transport in Cape Town as I didn’t have a car so I used it plenty to get to work which was close by. I also did my own Cape Argus route in June of 2012 to see what it was like to cycle such a long distance. Took me 8 hours I recall and the distance I think was about 130kms I reckon. It was a lekker trip that tested me in all places but rewarded me also with its amazing scenery. I could now understand why the Cape Argus is such a popular event.

Bike. Check.
I had also started to research a rough route of where I would be riding. This started putting all things into perspective. My initial idea was to ride the perimeter of the country, expecting roads to just magically follow the border quite neatly. That wasn’t the case as I zoomed into Google maps. So I just resorted to plotting a route using the roads that are as most on the perimeter of the country as possible. I mean, it’s either that or you can be a total hard arse and actually find a way to ride along the border if you want to be ‘sooo specific’. I figured being ‘soooo specific’ wasn’t worth it. If someone wants to do that and have those bragging rights then be my guest. My trip would be plenty enough. 

The idea was now becoming action. I was finally starting to make this a possible reality. And with the reality came many more questions that needed answers. How long would it take? How much would it cost? When would I start? What is the meaning of life? ("42!!!" screams the ghost of Douglas Adams) Will I ever meet my evil doppelganger? Am I already that evil doppelganger and I don’t even know about it? Slowly the answers came together. Well, most of them anyways.

So my contract ended along with my lease and I decided I was going do this thing within the next couple months. So I moved all my things to my mom’s place in Blouberg as I didn’t want to renew the lease and from there I planned the rest.

I made myself a detailed map from a collection of google map screen shots and drew the route. I also worked out where I would possibly stay. My initial route was quite close to the border but it also appeared quite easy and straight forward regarding the sections in the top part of the Northern Cape, North West and Limpopo as I was planning on using many of the main roads. This, I am glad to say changed quite a lot once I actually got riding, as you will find out later. I was clearly playing it safe in this planning stage.

My intial route slash promotional map. Bitching hey?
I decided to leave April 7th on a Sunday which was two days after my 30th birthday and also because Venus was solsticing in the 33rd degree alignment thereby influencing my Fire planet Mars which imbued me with Arcane strength. (“You are mad Clinton. Ride the Arctic circles. Ssseeeek your dessstiny in their frooozen tundras.”) I also wanted to just have a chilled birthday get together with friends whom I wouldn’t be seeing for a while then just have the next day off to finalize any last minute prepping. The time was also mid Autumn which I figured was a good time to ride. Not too hot as the summer was clearly over, and definitely not too cold. Looking back, I am glad I picked that time as weather played a large part in when I decided to leave but I reckon if someone can start a journey in frozen Siberia like Rob Lilwall did, then I had no excuse with our wonderful climate. Once I had my start date I made it official on Facebook so there really was no going back. Haha, as if that actually makes anything official. I let everyone know this was my plan for the next couple of months and I was going share it with everyone who was interested plus I asked if anyone could help with accommodation of any kind in the places I would be riding through, as that would help take a load off I figured. I got plenty positive feedback for which I was grateful plus a couple places were mentioned where I could and did stay but once I got going, things worked themselves out.

I initially felt like getting sponsorship with regards to some basic equipment but in the end I was rejected a few times so just decided to say stuff it and bought all that I needed, plus I was given some much needed stuff from some good friends. One doesn’t always need sponsorship for an adventure just because you think or feel you are doing something which you may think is extraordinary. This little truth would show itself quite a few times down the road once I started. That being said, I did get a little discount from Cyclelabs in Cape Town when I bought some proper mountain bike shorts, an odometer and some other things so thank you guys very much. They were also the people I bought my bike from a year earlier. Plus not being tied to a sponsor allowed me the freedom of my trip without having any obligations to the sponsors. So in the end, I was happy without sponsors once I accepted that as fact. I got my bike rack and panniers from an advert on Gumtree from a guy who cycled with them in France. Slowly my bike and kit were coming together.
I also got myself a South Africa pocket road atlas which revealed loads more detail about the trip especially distance between towns which I found both shocking initially but also very helpful in the end. Also, it showed more roads than the google maps I had referenced, which helped expand my journey a bit. I referred to it countless times while on the road and it is now nicely worn from constant use.

My main concerns about the whole trip were about either getting Malaria which I knew was a potential risk and possibly crime plus the whatever weather winter had in store for me. I visited the travel doctor in Claremont and got 50 pills of Doxytab for the malaria areas I would be riding through along the eatern side of the country mainly. I was given Doxitab as I couldn’t take this other pill as it clashed with the antidepressants I would still be on for the next 2 months roughly, so Doxitab was the next and cheapest bet. You are supposed to start taking the pills one day before entering a malaria risk area, then once everyday whilst in the area then once every day for 4 weeks once you out the area. Plus some of the side effects weren’t all that cool, with sun sensitivity and nausea being the main ones I was worried about. I mean, I didn’t want to be potentially experiencing all this nonsense for a month once I was out the risk area, seeing as I was riding a bike out in the open all the time. I am glad to say I still have all 50 pills and didn’t catch malaria once, all thanks to good timing weather wise and good precautions. Though I did have a little scare in Durban as you will read about later.
See, told ya I still had them.
Crime being the another potential factor, I decided to get a small pepperspray device. I carried it in my pocket everyday in case but I am happy to say I never had to use it as I was crime free the whole way. I was also almost tempted to dirty my bike up before hand to make it less attractive to potential thieves after reading about it in Riaan Mansers book but decided against that. So no crime, stoked!!!
Winter weather. Well I handled that just fine. In a sense. Keep reading for all them chilling tales.

I had also wanted to ride through the Kruger Natioanal Park, as that has a nice tarred road that ran from top to bottom which would have made the perimeter ride more perimetery, you know. Plus how awesome would it have been to ride through the KNP? Flippen awesome I say! So a few phone calls later, I was officially told, 'Sorry, no'. I was gutted. I felt like the wind had already been knocked out of my sails and I hadn't even left the harbour yet. What was I do to? It was as if someone had created a blackhole inside my very being. Oh the agony of being denied entry for fear that I may end up inside some carnivores stomach. It was too much to handle so I did the next best thing. Shrugged it off and carried on planning. Meh.
Denied.
We'll be waiting for you Clinton.
Clothing was a little tricky at first. I looked at what other guys took on their trips and adjusted accordingly. I knew I had to travel with only the basics that would cover me for all weather, as I was riding into winter in a couple weeks. That’s one of the initial drawbacks about adventure riding, is having to carry all this gear you will only use at a later date if need be, but such is the nature of the beast and better to be prepared than be cold and miserable. Of which I was cold a few times before I sorted that out. So after much thinking and packing, I left with the following items of clothing.

1 x wind/rain jacket.  (terrible for rain by the way as I found out)
1 x winter zipper jersey
1 x tracksuit pants
1 x wool beanie
1 x mountain bike shorts with padding
2 x shirts (one was for riding, other for casual days off)  Bought a long sleeve riding shirt in Upington to save arms from sun and for only R40.
4 x Boxer briefs (2 stretchy to ride in, 2 cotton to sleep in) trust me, you don’t want to ride in cotton jocks. Lost a cotton pair somewhere. I think in East London maybe after they were washed.
1 x baggies (my funpants as they are known to some, for casual and swim wear)
4 x pair of socks
1 x thermal leggings
1 x t-shirt to sleep in
1 x pajama pants
1 x long sleeve thermal shirt for cold nights
1 x pair of slops
1 x pair of running tekkies. I cycled in these seeing as I didn’t want to spend more cash on clips and clip shoes. In the end they did the job just fine, plus doubled up for when I had any walking to do.
1 x towel
1 x face cloth
1 x Pair of pocketed shorts I bought in Margate.
1 x Long pants for wind protection I bought in East London. My knees were getting chilly from the wind so this was needed. Was told they were rain resistant too. Lies!!!!! But they helped out none the less.
1 x reflector vest courtesy of my pal Adam.
1 x bike helmet

My camping gear consisted of a tent that was too big to begin with. I bought it as it was on special but the damn thing weighs about 3.8kg and is a two man tent. Bitching aside, it was an awesome tent and did its job perfectly, though I know better for next time. Other things were a sleeping bag, headlight and hanging torch, small medical kit, lighter stick and batteries, all given by Adam and Pavarni. The rest was portable gas and a stove, cooking pans, cutlery, plastic coffee mug, can opener, pot cleaner sponge, lighter and other odds and ends. Also my brother Michael lent me his Leatherman tool which I used almost every day since day 48. Also an assortment of basic toiletries one would need along with some basic medical creams and tablets for any cuts, scrapes, infections, headaches or nausea. (Dont forget paranoia Clinton. You spent an awefully long time being alone out there). Plus Deapheat. Essential at times. Plus sunblock. Can’t forget that. Also mozzie repellant and hand sanitizer. Also quite essential.

Having your own bike equipment is also super important seeing as anything could go wrong and you must be able to fix it anywhere seeing as many times you will be far from a town and even then, that town may not have a bike shop to help you.(No freaken duhhh, Captain Obvious!!!) Most important things to have are spare tubes and chain links because if either of these puncture or snap respectively, you cannot ride at all. So I had those plus the tools to replace them with. Other things were basic puncture kit, pump, chain lube, rope (which I stopped using after day one) reflectors. Along the way I bought a spare tyre so I had one incase a major tear happened. Also bought some spokes on day 3 in case they started buckling which never happened. I am lucky cause I didn’t actually have the tool to take off the cog on the back wheel in order to replace the spokes if that happened, so stoked again. I also picked up two canisters of compressed air for any emergency inflating that may have been needed plus connector. I ended up not using them. Plus 2 bottles of tube gel for minor puncture protection. Again I didn’t use either. But the one did end up spilling its contents much later.
Sleeping bag, tent, reflector vest, panniers and back back I hung from seat.

Other odds and ends were the basics such as a camera with batteries. Passport and Id book. My Blackberry phone with charger which was my main link to the world till I lost it on the 102nd day. Notebook and pen for notes (did Captain Obvious just fly by?) and keeping a journal. And my Ipod shuffle which is essential for long distance riding. Make sure it is loaded with shitloads of heavy metal to give you a boost of energy for those last 2 hour stretches.
War and Peace?! What the hell was I thinking?

Clothes and cutlery were packed in one pannier bag with camping gear and bike tools in the other. My backpack which was hing from my bike seat would include all the other things which I would need access to more easily and often throughout each day, especially food which I will get into detail later.

Right, so now I had everything and it was the night of April 6th. I had just come back from a nice dinner with my brother and his girlfriend Hannah. I also quickly set up a twitter account @CycleSA2013 (visit it for all its tweety deliciousssnesssss) before doing a rough pack and cooking some food for the next day. Then I went to bed. Tomorrow I was off.
Official logo. My trip was now officially, official.

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